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Has anybody here replaced the rear bank valve cover gasket on their v6? I'd like to know just how big a pain in the ass it is to take off the intake manifold.
Valve cover gasket replacement
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It can be a realy pain but isn't impossible. You'll need to remove the intake , plug wires(mark them so you know where they went), and a bunch of nuts and bolts. Where it becomes a pain is there is a bolt dead center on the back of the manifold that you cannot see which holds the manifold in place. You have to find it by touch. Fortunately you don't really need it and can throw it away when you are done. Also you will need to unhook a few of the vacuum line, MAKE SURE YOU MARK THEM! If you don't and hook them up wrong the car with run like crap. Since you will ne in there anyway you should put in a set of Sean Morgan's phenolic spacers. You can do a search on this site or probetalk for info on them or use the link in my signature to the SCPOC lub, we have the info on the site and Sean's e-mail is the members section. Also this is a great time to clean out the throttle body and replace the fuel filter. All in all it took me 6 hours to do all of this but I had help from the car club so it probably should take less time than that. 
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It's not hard, just a bit of work. The
- air ducting
- TB coolant & BAV air bypass supply pipes
- fuel supply & return lines
- injector, TPS, IAC, VRIS, canister purge harnesses
- PCV tubes
- etc...
need to be removed, disconnected or otherwise gotten out of the way. The biggest thing you need to do right is very carefully label every vacuum line you remove with a tab of masking tape. A simple hand drawing showing where each connects will help simplify re-assembly and make sure everything works right saving you headaches.
One other thing is that there is a bolt buiried deep behind the engine, beneath the VRIS solenoid plate, that needs to be removed before the manifold will lift off. Make sure you get it before trying to get the manifold off.
When you get yourself new intake gaskets, make sure to include new copper crush washers for the fuel lines.
Finally, make sure you relieve pressure in the fuel system before starting: start the engine and, with it running, pull the fuel pump relay and allow the engine to run till it stalls...
- air ducting
- TB coolant & BAV air bypass supply pipes
- fuel supply & return lines
- injector, TPS, IAC, VRIS, canister purge harnesses
- PCV tubes
- etc...
need to be removed, disconnected or otherwise gotten out of the way. The biggest thing you need to do right is very carefully label every vacuum line you remove with a tab of masking tape. A simple hand drawing showing where each connects will help simplify re-assembly and make sure everything works right saving you headaches.
One other thing is that there is a bolt buiried deep behind the engine, beneath the VRIS solenoid plate, that needs to be removed before the manifold will lift off. Make sure you get it before trying to get the manifold off.
When you get yourself new intake gaskets, make sure to include new copper crush washers for the fuel lines.
Finally, make sure you relieve pressure in the fuel system before starting: start the engine and, with it running, pull the fuel pump relay and allow the engine to run till it stalls...
It's not a difficult job at all. As long as you have a lot of tools and a little of elbow grease, and about 3-5 hours to spare, you shold have no problems.
The only thing that I can suggest to you is the following. Please PLEASE label each hose and nut or bolt that you remove. I used different color paint. I dabbed a DOT with a certain color on the hose that I was removing and the end that I was removing it from. That way when I go to put it back on, I wouldn't get them mixed up.
Other than that, It's all about removing nut and bolt after bolt and so on. Just remember that once you THINK you have them all, and try to lift the manifold off, you really DON"T have them all, just check and recheck to see if you have removed all hoses and bolts. OHH, there's also 1 bolt, 1 hidden bold towards th ebaqck of th emanifold, between the firewall and the manifold itself. you will not be able to see this bolt, you'll be able to only feel it. If you do not remove this bolt, then th emanifold will not come off. Good thing is that once it's removed, you do not have to put it back in.
Let me know if you need any more specific information.
The only thing that I can suggest to you is the following. Please PLEASE label each hose and nut or bolt that you remove. I used different color paint. I dabbed a DOT with a certain color on the hose that I was removing and the end that I was removing it from. That way when I go to put it back on, I wouldn't get them mixed up.
Other than that, It's all about removing nut and bolt after bolt and so on. Just remember that once you THINK you have them all, and try to lift the manifold off, you really DON"T have them all, just check and recheck to see if you have removed all hoses and bolts. OHH, there's also 1 bolt, 1 hidden bold towards th ebaqck of th emanifold, between the firewall and the manifold itself. you will not be able to see this bolt, you'll be able to only feel it. If you do not remove this bolt, then th emanifold will not come off. Good thing is that once it's removed, you do not have to put it back in.
Let me know if you need any more specific information.
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