[Das00]

my vris 1 hasn't worked since i bought my car 2nd hand about 12 months ago, but until i started reading this board, i didn't know how to test it. after doing the "pieces of paper test" i confirmed v1 was the problem. upon removing the solenoid, it fell apart in my hands, so i assume that was the problem, and got a replacement from mazda, installed it yesterday, and now v1 is open at idle? also, power delivery feels the same, still a huge change at 4500 rpm when v2 actuates, as if v1 is closed then. any ideas as to why it's open at idle? perhaps it's closing when it should be opening?

I have tried reseting the computer, no change. And i get no cel's, never have, even when i drove around for 3 days with no solenoid, just a golf tee plugging the vac line. anyone had a similar problem or know of a solution?

hope mike94pgt, god of vris, reads this

 

[Mike 94PGT]

my vris 1 hasn't worked since i bought my car 2nd hand about 12 months ago, but until i started reading this board, i didn't know how to test it. after doing the "pieces of paper test" i confirmed v1 was the problem. upon removing the solenoid, it fell apart in my hands, so i assume that was the problem, and got a replacement from mazda, installed it yesterday, and now v1 is open at idle? also, power delivery feels the same, still a huge change at 4500 rpm when v2 actuates, as if v1 is closed then. any ideas as to why it's open at idle? perhaps it's closing when it should be opening?

Actually, the #1 valve is supposed to open at idle. Have a friend sit in the car and watch the valve as he/she floors the throttle for a second or so. I believe you'll see it close and, if the engine gets above 3250, you'll see it open again.

I have tried reseting the computer, no change. And i get no cel's, never have, even when i drove around for 3 days with no solenoid, just a golf tee plugging the vac line. anyone had a similar problem or know of a solution?

Hmm. Do you see the check engine light come on at all? When you first turn the ignition on (but don't start it), does the CEL come on then? The PCM should have detected the missing solenoid...

 

[Das00]

I tried putting my camcorder in the engine bay (no one else is home, had to get creative) the valve does close when i floor it. still dunno if it's working though, as i get a very noticable acceleration boost at 4500rpms, and the curve seems flat at best till then.

and no cel, doesn't light up on on(not start)position either. perhaps a blown bulb? where in the dash cluster is the light? i get tail lights, abs, hand brake, battery, and oil.

 

[Mike 94PGT]

I tried putting my camcorder in the engine bay (no one else is home, had to get creative) the valve does close when i floor it. still dunno if it's working though, as i get a very noticable acceleration boost at 4500rpms, and the curve seems flat at best till then.

and no cel, doesn't light up on on(not start)position either. perhaps a blown bulb? where in the dash cluster is the light? i get tail lights, abs, hand brake, battery, and oil.

Ah-ha! I just noticed your sig said "92 626 v6" and see that you are located in Townsville, NthQLD. As I've observed about UK Probes and 626/MX6s, cars sold into your market probably didn't even have a check-engine lamp populated.

In order to read the codes, you can use a voltmeter. Ground the TEN pin as per instructions on my page. Then, connect a voltmeter to the FEN pin (positive lead) and GND (negative lead). When the FEN pin is at +12V, it's equivalent to the check engine light being OFF. When the voltage on the FEN pin goes to 0V, it's equivalent to the the check engine light being on. You can count the pulses (oV=light 'on', 12V=light 'off') and get the codes that way.

I don't know the reasoning behind not putting the check engine lamp in cars for the UK and Australian (and other) markets. Perhaps there are local regulations of some sort...

BTW, it sounds like the VRIS #1 is working fine now.

 

[Das00]

thanks a lot mike, it does seem like the vris system is working now. it just makes a lot more noise at 4500rpm, and that's making the ol' ass dyno think there is a power surge, but it seems to have flattened out.(the power curve, not the ass dyno ) I'll be sure to try that method for checking for codes, was pretty sure my 02's are screwed, but now i can check. Thanks again.