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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what will i see if I bore and stroke my Engine? has anyone ever done this?? I want to know what kinda performacne i will see
 

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boring is easy... you can get a bore/hone/mill package for under $200

stroker kits will be upwards of $1200 for a 4-cyl.


if im not mistaken, an overbore will increase low end torque more than high end. a stroker kit boosts power throughout the power band but the greatest gain is on the top end...

with a bore/stroke up and a compression increase, you should see a power increase of 30-40%
 

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TKT has a couple stroker kits. Lots of work and $$ and it's not really worth it. It'll boil down to how much you want to spend and how many HP will you be satisfied. You can extract about 235whp out of the 2.5l without internal mods. That's enough to kick most butts on the street. Only streetable 12's cars can make you look bad then. Trust me, you can tell when it's a 12's car.
 

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I can think of a few 12second Civics with GSR motors + some tricks that would creep right under your nose.
 

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Not on the street you don't. Unless they got drag radials on, you can still take them off the line and up to about 100 mph.
 

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1bad_mx6 said:
TKT has a couple stroker kits. Lots of work and $$ and it's not really worth it.
i beg to differ...

You can extract about 235whp out of the 2.5l without internal mods. That's enough to kick most butts on the street.
reliably??? how much would those mods cost and what are they?
 

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It'll be just as reliable as the boosting application. Of course I'm talking about nitrous. You'll need to have the other basic mods covered like intake, exhaust, headers, clutch, fuel pump & regulator, UDP, and lite flywheel.

Stage36, you can beg the differ all you want. But do you see anyone with a stroker kit making big numbers on a daily driven car lately? I know some of them are in the process of building up motors and are cursing all the way to the bank. One guy in a 626 posted some fuzzy dyno charts about putting out 300+ whp with a slipping clutch.

For that, I can only say this. If it was me who spent the time & money to get to that stage. Believe me, I would make sure I have a working clutch, some crystal clear pictures and detailed information for the whole probe/mx6 community. That's not to brag but to inform them that the improbable can sometimes happen.
 

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1bad_mx6 said:
It'll be just as reliable as the boosting application. Of course I'm talking about nitrous. You'll need to have the other basic mods covered like intake, exhaust, headers, clutch, fuel pump & regulator, UDP, and lite flywheel.

Stage36, you can beg the differ all you want. But do you see anyone with a stroker kit making big numbers on a daily driven car lately?

no, but i live in albuquerque, and dont work at a dyno shop, and dont see anyone NOSsing on their way to work either. plus, with all those corequisite mods, youre easily up over $1500.
 

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a friend of mine has a PGT and we looked into strokers but they arent worth it, and he has the money to spend. Just bore it out and go with a good piston/rod combo. you'll be happy with that
 

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TT-MX6,

Does "TT" stand for Twikle-Toes or do have have at twin turbo set up on your 6? I'm ready to hear about it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What kinda performance am i going to see with a with a good piston/rod combo after boaring?
 

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Mazx6 said:
What kinda performance am i going to see with a with a good piston/rod combo after boaring?
it depends on what you go with...

rod options:

Stock: not sure the price, but strong as steel, heavy as steel... no fun

Chro-moly: about $230/rod or so... theyre made of strong aircraft alloy, are forged and shot-peened... this makes them MUCH stronger than steel and can therefore be cut differently making them lighter than stock rods... you can basically rev higher and run higher NOS/boost with these rods... (these are what i have)

Titanium: about $550-$600/rod... 1/2 the weight of steel and twice the strength. this decrease in weight makes a BIG difference in high-RPM performance. some claim a 30-40 HP gain at high RPM...


piston options: select a combination of the following 3 options... or stay stock...

forged: this is a piston option that makes the piston stronger... i recommend this... if you want to know why, i will scan pics of what happened to my stock piston...

compression ratio: lower compression to run a turbo, raise compression for N/A, NOS, and supercharging. to low of a CR will make your car inefficient... bad gas mileage and performance... too high of a CR and you will cause detonation. in order to run anything higher than stock, you will need to increase the octane of your gas to premium or even higher...

bore: match the piston size to the cylinder size. an overbore increases low end torque considerably... also after putting a considerable amount of miles on an engine, the cylinders become out of round... another good reason to overbore...

i have +.040 11:1 forged pistons...

run 12:1 on 95 octane gas with an overbore of .030 or .040 with titanium rods and you should see upwards of 65 HP...
 

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no twin turbo yet im still working on it, its kinda a long term progect. I have the turbos picked out but i cant find the right piping to get the best spool times. mas air VS air cfi ratios realy suck.
Plus everything is going back to the drawing bord cuz im buying an ATX. i posted "Twin Turbo".
do you know anyone with it done???
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i have +.040 11:1 forged pistons...

What kinda performacne did you see and how much did EVERYTHING cost?
 

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well EVERYTHING came out to about $4000

i havent dynoed because i wanted to break my engine in... well i ran lean an damaged a few valves so im redoing the head when i get enough money for valves, injectors, FPR, and pump. all at once.

but the rings are settled and its ready to rip... once i get these over these small hurdles...

im hoping to pull 250HP at the wheels, but anyhwere upwards of 200 and ill be satisfied... my "all engine" goal is 250 though... its only 100 HP/Litre... that should have me doing at least mid 14s at mile hi on street tires...
 
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