Replaced all four rotors no more than 10 months ago (RDA Slotted), fronts are already warped - I get that awful shake on sudden braking, or when applying them gradually at high speed.
I know that constant hard braking, rapid heating/cooling and such like can warp them - that's why they were replaced originally. Obviously since then I have changed my driving habits to avoid that same issue again, but unfortunately it did not work. I suspect it is just down to cheap nasty rotors.
First option I have is to get the rotors machined, though looking at cost vs thickness of rotor lost, it may be just as much to get new rotors, so, what can you guys suggest?
daevilone - you do autocross don't you? That must involve hard braking - what do you run?
I started a thread on the same thing earlier in the year....I had two sets of RDA slotteds go warped on me.....
The first set I thought was bad luck, the second set, I was pretty annoyed, and opened up a returns case with RDA through the place I bought them.
After about 9 months I eneded up getting my money back, so I suppose thats something...
They tried to blame me for my car not being in good condition.....When I mentioned that I bought another brand and they were ok....they went a bit quiet.
Problem is that I have heard similar stories from people with DBAs on different cars (like fords)
And thats pretty much it for the Australian manufacturers, PBR only make plain rotors...and I've used them before and theyre fine.
I only bought their e-line rotors, they do a more performance oriented set...I didnt think it was needed, I only do "spirited" road driving in that car.
And so far after 9 months no issues.
I like the zinc plating too, stops them all going rusty on the edges.
And yeah, I wouldnt bother machining them, especially if the material is suspect, they'll probably warp again
well I ran stock rotors for a year (what came with the car, including whatever pads came with it. So with the hard breaking from that I didnt warp any rotors or anything.
Currently I've got RDA slotted at the front with Lucas TRW pads. They've been pretty damn good so far.
but agreed with the autos kill brakes comment. My brakes hardly get touched driving around on the street.
All I can say is I have seen the way u guys brake. Not all suprised they have warped though. Having said that, they are cheap rotors, we all know that, Thats why we bought them all to begin with. I have some stock ones that are still perfectly fine if you would like them?
Otherwise maybe a mazda 6 brake buy is a better option.
Its funny that, I have never had issues with rotor warping with genuine mazda rotors....even on my first GC that had solid front discs, I used the then available Bendix Metal king plus pads on them....I regularly got the brakes hot enough to burn all the paint off the pad backing plate.....Rotors were fine, never had a prob.
I bought a pair of replacement PBR ones after the genuine ones wore out and even they stood up to that kind of hammering, like 3 stops from 140-50 in quick succession.....
when I warped my RDAs on the GD I wouldnt have been doing anything like that.....I reckon I did one 100-0 quick stop and they were rubbish after that.
looks like genuine rotors might be quite a bit better than after market.
one of the problmes now is Soft metals for better brake performance
So aftermarket disc makers have to make them as soft and strngs as stock yet it cost more ot make brakes out of different materials
Now days it' not uncommon to change your rotors -at 30,000km's because the car makers create such hollow discs for cooling and soft metal base when it's cast that the pads and disc wear rats is not longer a 5-50 ratio it's more like a 1-3 ratio.
So many new cars you can't machine the discs on them anymore after the 3rd pad change they are already below minimum.
What pads were you running? I've heard of certain pads leaving residue on rotors eventuating in them warping. Namely DBAs mixed with Bendix GCTs but might ahve the same affect on RDAs?
The "no need to bed in" stripe on them is a joke though.
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