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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Water Pump, Removal and Installation (Timing Belt Too)

Why is this updated? Because I had to replace it AGAIN. Here's the post if you care. Anything that I add from now on will be in italics so you can tell the difference. On with the show.

Why am I posting about changing out my water pump? Because it took me like 3 days to figure it out! Or eight hours once I knew what I was doing. Hopefully you can just read this, print it out and take a day to do it. Okay like 6 hours if you already have all the parts. Last sentence is true, it took 2Rusty and me 2 hours maybe while driving around Worcester. If for some reason the turbine on your pump looks different, there are 2 different styles of turbines. If you care, please goto this thread.

Alright, let's get down to business. First get your parts and tools.
All sizes are in mm unless specified
Tools:


  • Ratchet wrench
  • 10, 12, 14 and (21 or 13/16") sockets
  • 10, 12, 14 Deepwell sockets
  • 14 and 17 crescent wrench
  • Vice Grips
  • Hammer like instrument
  • Jack
  • Container for coolant (Please be good to the environment)
  • Wire Brushes (Optional)
  • Big flathead screwdriver (If you're not extra strong)
Parts:
  • NEW Water pump - $40, Autozone (Don't bother with a used one)
  • Water
  • Antifreeze
  • Metal gasket if you don't already have one (this makes installation much easier later on) OR silicon gasket rtv sealant
Highly suggested Parts:
  • New Rubber "gaskets" Mazda part numbers FE1H-10-543D, FE1H-10-544A, FE1H-10-545A - About $25 for all @ your local Mazda Dealership
  • New Tensioner Spring
Suggested New Parts:
  • Alternator Belt
  • A/C / Power Steering Belt
  • Timing Belt
Instructions:

First, drain the coolant from the car. I find it best to place a large open container right under the bottom of the radiator where the plug is, take off the plug, then take off the radiator cap. After the coolant is fully drained, loosen the lugnuts on the passenger's side wheel. Jack up the passenger's side and take off the wheel. Put the wheel under the car for safety, right behind the jack. Next take off the mud flap like thing with your 10 so you can get to the crankshaft. After that open up the hood, you need to unbolt something with your 10 and move it out of the way.





 

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Chillin'
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4,971 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
After you move the cruise control unit (Thanks PSTLNC) that's pictured in the above post, remove the upper timing belt cover. It shouldn't be too hard to do. Now is when it become difficult.
Please note: When I did this there wasn't any refrigerant in my A/C system. It was all lost when I crashed. I removed my A/C compressor for easier access to the water pump. I will not tell you how to take it out, just adjust it to remove a belt. Removing the air conditioning compressor isn't necessary, though disconnecting one of the pipes was helpful in gaining a greater wrench turning radius.
Look @ the picture below. Take a 17 crescent wrench and a 14 crescent wrench or a 14 socket instead and loosen up the bolt. Be careful not to damage your radiator because this bolt will be very tight. Once you loosen it up you should be able to use the adjusters above that bolt to lower the A/C compressor and loosen the belt that's also connected to the crankshaft and power steering pump. If it seems stuck, you may need to loosen the joint bolt. Remove belt when possible. Don't forget to remove the thing in the picture. Just unscrew it and let it hang down. It gets in the way later.
Next, loosen the alternator to take off the alternator belt. I think the bolt is a 14, if not a 12. Again, you may have to loosen the hinge on the alternator. The head for the hinge points in and is the same size socket. Take off the alternator belt now.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now take the crankshaft pulley off. Just take off the six outside screws (10mm) and PULL! If you can't pull it off, use the flathead screwdriver to pry and wedge it off. After you get that off and the little deflector plate, take off the lower timing belt cover, should be a 10. Put a mark on the timing belt if you're gonna use it over again. Just make an arrow pointing to the front of the car. Now get out the vice grips to undo the tensioner spring. If you look from the top you should have no problems. Just grab the part that's showing and pull it to the front of the car over the notch so it's loose. Then loosen the tensioner with a 14, you don't have to remove it though. After you loosen the tensioner, it should move a little and the timing belt should be loose enough to come off.
ALTERNATIVE to get the timing belt off: If you're replacing it anyways you can always pry the timing belt off :p

If you are just replacing the timing belt, skip down to where you put the stuff back on.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Now you can remove the water pump. There will be six 12mm bolts holding it on. You may need an extension of some kind or deepwell sockets. My favorite was a 3/8" wrench, 3/8" -> 1/4" adapter then a 1/4" 12mm. If coolant comes out, you didn't properly drain the car. Take out the water pump. Take the idler and tensioner off the water pump with a 14. You might want to remove the idler and tensioner BEFORE you take the pump off. Thanks Jinster.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Optional

This is an optional step but highly suggested, CLEAN! You have all this stuff apart, you might as well clean all the dirt and oil that's caked on. Don't forget to clean the screw threads too!
This is what it looked like when I took off the water pump. Yuck! The Second pic is what my block looked like after I removed the pump and 10,000 mi. Looks much cleaner to me.




 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Optional still

This is what it looked like after a little cleaning, not the best but still better. I know there's still rust there but the surface is much smoother for better water flow. Look above, after the scrubbing and 10,000 miles, that part cleaned itself.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Installation

Okay now that you have your shiny new water pump, oh wait, yours isn't shiny, or new? Well get one that is, only new shiny water pumps work :D I'm assuming that you have/got a metal water pump gasket. If not, put that rtv sealant around where the gasket and pump meet. You don't have to put too much on, just enough or it to stick. If you don't have a gasket, a new one should have came with your new pump. If you're gonna go sans gasket (I don't recommend this,) put a good amount of the RTV sealant on the machined surfaces of the pump and pray. Now see that the metal gasket has 2 holes that have 4 triangles pointed down? Put those in the water pump and turn it upside down. If you think it's gonna stay through installation, good. If not then take two of the 12mm screws and use them to secure the gasket on. The screw heads should be on the pulley side, not the turbine side. The screw should not go past the metal gasket either.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Installation, Step 2

Getting the first 12mm in the water pump is a pain. Hopefully, you've cleaned the gasket (if being re-used) and around where the gasket goes; cleaning inside the block is optional and suggested. Put the expensive rubber pieces on the water pump and be sure the don't fall off. If yours broke or have turned to plastic, get new ones. I bolted up most of the screws from underneath the car but put it in place from the top. I rested the bottom of the water pump on the crankshaft while I got under. Secure 2 screws in the pump BEFORE fully putting in the ones that hold the gasket. Snug each six screws up and then fully tighten them. Now put the idler and tensioner back on. The idler is the one that just has a regular hole in the middle. The tensioner has an arch in the middle of the bearing, two small holes on a non-moving metal bracket. Put the idler on the right and tighten it down. Put the tensioner on the left. The hole on the bracket that's closest to the bearing should fit in a little bump that's just below the screw hole. Snug down the tensioner then loosen it a half turn. Don't forget to leave/put on the new spring on the hole that is farther away from the bearing. Don't connect the new spring to the post on the water pump. Snug all the screws up first, then torque them down starting from the middle out. MAKE SURE TO USE THE CORRECT TORQUE. This is what I believe caused my first Autozone pump to break. The bolts for the pump are 14-19 N-m or about as hard as I can torque with just the wrench. The idler and tensioner should be 34 N-m. You'll need a torque wrench or some type of extension for your wrench. I torqued my idler and and tensioner one full turn past wrench tight. Don't fully tighten the tensioner until the timing belt and new spring are back on.

 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Get Ready

Putting on the timing belt shouldn't be too hard, just two things to remember. One, if you're reusing your used belt, line up that arrow at the top. The belt needs to be in the same direction or, it will break much sooner. That also means you'll have to go though this again sooner too. Two, you must keep tension on the part of the belt that points to the front. This means from the camshaft pulley to the idler to the water pump pulley to the crankshaft, that whole right side, needs to be as tight as possible. You don't have to over do it though. Before you put on the timing belt, there's two things that must be aligned. One the camshaft pulley must be lined up with 1. Two the crankshaft notch must line up with the notch above it. The shop manual suggests taking out the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine. I suggest putting the car in neutral as well. Don't forget to put on the parking break. The camshaft pulley can either be turned by hand or with a 14. The crankshaft pulley can be turned with a 21 or 13/16". You may need extra torque on your wrench for this one if you leave the spark plugs in. So get a breaker bar or something similar.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Once everything is aligned, you're now ready to put the timing belt on. Remember to keep the timing belt in the same direction as you took it off (only if you are reusing your belt) and to keep tension on the water pump pulley side. Once the belt is on, get out the vice grips again. Grab the end of the new tensioner spring that isn't connected to anything. Now attach it to the spring post. Make sure it fits in the groove on the post. Now tighten the tensioner screw with a 14. Now the timing belt is on. Now we have to test it. Turn the crankshaft exactly two times clockwise. Now look at the camshaft pulley. Is it pointing to 1? If so, good, you're all set. If not take loosen the tensioner so it can pivot, take the spring off the spring post with the vice grips and go back to the post titled Get Ready (just one post above.)


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Now that the timing belt is on, we need to get the rest of the belts on by first putting the crankshaft pulley back on. Between the crankshaft and its pulley there should be a baffle plate. The plate should curve away from the engine. It is there to guide the timing belt if it gets off track. When you put on the screws for the pulley just snug each screw first. Then tighten each one down. After each one it tightened down, check each one again by tightening it until it turns the crankshaft.
Now we need to put on the other belts. Put on the alternator belt and tighten the alternator with a 14. Next put the A/C / Power Steering belt on and tighten up the A/C compressor.
After both belts are on you're home free. Just put on the lower timing belt cover then the upper timing belt cover. Put back that little box and the cruise control unit. Plug up the radiator. Put the plastic mud flap thing back on and but the wheel back on. Lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lugnuts and fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Put the radiator cap back on, close the hood, clean up your tools and you're done.

Picture below is my second broken water pump held by WeldingHank.


 

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Chillin'
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
If there's anything that's wrong, omitted or just anything I need to know about, please pm or e-mail me so I can fix it. Always remember common sense. Test out the car before you drive it anywhere. Let the engine idle for 5 minutes before driving it. Check to make sure all the belts are tight and that coolant isn't leaking. Then take it for a spin around the block. Watch the temperature gauge for a few days especially while driving on the highway and make sure it doesn't go past the half way mark. If while starting the car it screeches, you need to tighten one or both belts more. I will not be held responsible for anything that goes wrong with your car, even if these instructions are followed exactly.

If you have any comments or want to read other's comments on this project please goto this thread: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63916

Thanks for tuning your 6!


 
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