lol we should team up for this - i'm 40,000 over due, so i need to do timing belt, rocker cover gasket, aswell as a couple of noisy HLA's... i dunno how i'll go for this july cruise yet... my latest spat of troubles... and now a leaking TB boot... LOL - oh and just to add spice i also have two broken exhaust manifold studs ROFL
Not quiet that easy in Australia magik8
The goverment allows dealers to only hold parts and accessories for upto 10 years (called the Button plan).
Sure we can still get Genuine manuals at AUD$200. But most people want that 200 for tyres,turbos,bits & pieces etc
not to mention even the crappy haynes manual are over $50.... money better spent on fixing other problems
i know this sounds bad - but that why we need mx6.com and probetalk.com - just for all the info - even if people complain when we post a repeat of something someone asked about months ago
I can tell u how to do timing belt if you want as i only did mine yesterday. I didnt do the water pump on mine though as the car has only done 100 000km and they are supposed to have a life of 150 000km-200 000km, according to some mechanic.
If you can change the timing belt, then the water pump is pretty easy. Be sure you have the proper tools though, some of those bolts are a real bitch to get to. I used a 6 inch extension with a swivel on a couple of them. Also, when taking the bolts out, note very carefully which came out of where, they're all the exact same except for one... and it's shorter than the rest. Use some RTV sealant, but, don't use a whole lot, just try to make an even bead when installing the new water pump. Also, you probably want to take a gasket scraper and *carefully* scrape all the mineral deposits off the gasket surface. As I say, be careful, aluminum deforms easily, and if you scratch too deeply, you'll have another leak.
Yeah, the waterpump is easy once you take the belt off. You basically just find the bolts which are holding the waterpump to the block, undo them, and them bolt the new waterpump on. Also you have to transfer the idler pulley over to the new pump.
My old waterpump didn't have any sealant on it's gasket, and I didn't have to scrape the gasket off. So I didn't use sealant on the new gasket either, and I haven't had any leaking problems.
I moved my cruise control module out of the way so I could reach everything better. You have to use patience, like TexasMX6GT said, some bolts are hard to get at.
When you put the belt back on, spin the crank around several times to make sure the cam and crank timing marks remain lined up properly before continuing.
The haynes Ford Probe manual was good enough to get me through this job.
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