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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to Sac Raceway tonight accomponying Dan and Ramsey. Pretty so-so night. I only got 3 runs with the new ZE. First run was a 14.8. Second run was a 14.9. And the 3rd was teh 14.6. I was very happy with it tonight. I was satisfied with the 14.8 but the 14.6 was even better! I'm very proud of my new motor and it's performance. Next time i will be on the bottle and I will have a testpipe on. Spraying the n20, I am expecting 13's. Later.
-wes m.
 

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Very nice. :tup:

That's about what my stock '94 Z28 w/ 6 speed did. And that was 275 SAE/HP and 325 ft.lbs of TQ.

IIRC, my best was 14.53 @ 96.8 MPH.

And that car cost me ~$250/mo in insurance. :eek:
 

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VERY nice runs for a ZE... sounds like you can drive the hell outta of that thing.

And about the n2o... don't wanna be a party pooper, but with an 11:1 compression ratio, I'd say you need to fortify your bottom end and still run only a 50shot at best if you don't wanna buy another ZE. I'm sure you have researched it, but be careful. Cars are no fun when they don't run!!!
 

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And about the n2o... don't wanna be a party pooper, but with an 11:1 compression ratio, I'd say you need to fortify your bottom end and still run only a 50shot at best if you don't wanna buy another ZE. I'm sure you have researched it, but be careful. Cars are no fun when they don't run!!! [/B][/QUOTE]

actually the ZE is compressioned at 10:1. just thought i'd put that in.
 

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luexiong said:
And about the n2o... don't wanna be a party pooper, but with an 11:1 compression ratio, I'd say you need to fortify your bottom end and still run only a 50shot at best if you don't wanna buy another ZE. I'm sure you have researched it, but be careful. Cars are no fun when they don't run!!!
actually the ZE is compressioned at 10:1. just thought i'd put that in. [/B][/QUOTE]

I take it he has raised his CR with new pistons??

TurtleSpeed, if you do not mind me asking, what do you have done to your engine??

Congrats on the time BTW.......
 

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ya you guys are right... I was tired when I typed that. I don't know why I typed 11:1. My bad fellas!!!

And even at 10:1... it is not safe to run a nitrous oxide system without some other mods done first. I think you guys would agree right?
 

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drvITlîkUstôlIT said:
And that car cost me ~$250/mo in insurance. :eek:
i would LOVE to pay that :( (was that for full coverage?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the comments guys. my compressoin is stock at 10:1. The ZE itself is stock (never been opened). as far as my bolt ons and such I have the following: DXD clutch/ mx-3 fw, CAI, Dual cat-back exaust, coned TB, phenos, TB spacer, NGK plugs/wires, Rafi's motor mount inserts, Pacesetter STS, and that's about it. Basically, i will be getting and FPR and a walbro fuel pump before christmas time. Also, I am planning on getting some guages on a tripple guage pod for the a-piller (air/fuel ratio, oil pressure, water temp) So, leeme know what you guys think about the n20. It's soooo tempting, but I have to be realistic and I don't wanna kill this motor. Thanks,
-wes m.
 

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Goatcrapp said:
i would LOVE to pay that :( (was that for full coverage?)
You'll pay my insurance for me?!?!?!?! :tup:

Thanks man. Just don't expect any sexual favors. :E

That was for full coverage.

To make a long story short.....

I just turned 25 and was car shopping one day (Nov. 1996)
The dealer I bought it from originally got me full coverage for $150/mo, but 6 mos later they raised it to ~$260/mo. :eek:

Come to find out the dealer lied to the insurance agent; told him I was married to my g/f (who is now my wife). I told him one of the reasons I wouldn't buy the car is because I couldn't afford the insurance. :rolleyes:

The bastard lied to get a sale. Typical used car salesman. :shrug:

I had to sell it. I ended up taking a $4000 loss on the car. It was either that or have it repossessed.
 

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damn old people...im 20 and i pay about 260 a month for absolute minimum coverage...for full itd be probably 600 a month...with high deductibles...:mad:
 

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So I suppose I shouldn't tell you that I pay ~$100/mo for full coverage on the '93 MX6, '92 Camaro RS, and liability on my '83 Chevy C10 combined??? ;)

Or that I pay ~$260 a YEAR for full coverage on my '72 Camaro because it's a "Vintage Car". :lol:

I need to shut up. I'm hijacking this thread. :(
 

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Turtlespeed said:
Thanks for the comments guys. my compressoin is stock at 10:1. The ZE itself is stock (never been opened). as far as my bolt ons and such I have the following: DXD clutch/ mx-3 fw, CAI, Dual cat-back exaust, coned TB, phenos, TB spacer, NGK plugs/wires, Rafi's motor mount inserts, Pacesetter STS, and that's about it. Basically, i will be getting and FPR and a walbro fuel pump before christmas time. Also, I am planning on getting some guages on a tripple guage pod for the a-piller (air/fuel ratio, oil pressure, water temp) So, leeme know what you guys think about the n20. It's soooo tempting, but I have to be realistic and I don't wanna kill this motor. Thanks,
-wes m.
Well to this thread back on track:

Wes if I was you (which I'm not) I would stay away from the nitrous. A high compression ratio CAN take some form of f/i or nitrous (even though some consider it f/i) when properly tuned and built.

A stock ZE has a higher compression ratio to get better hp out of the engine. The motor has the higher compression ration to compensate for the lack of displacement it has. When this compression takes place on the power stroke for a motor that doesn't have enough gasoline and WAY too much air, it becomes infinitely easier to detonate on a higher compression motor like the ZE.

While the fuel pump and injectors will help, there is still WAY too much air in each cylinder IMO to be safe with f/i at that compressoin ratio. There are people who do it, but most wind up blowing the motor.

If you want the nitrous that bad, get a dry setup of a 75 shot and put the lower compression pistons of your old KL03 back in. This should net you high 13s.

Hope that helps.
 

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You could run a 50 shot all day long and be perfectly fine. 10:1 compression isn't that high. Its actually pretty average.

I'd say if you want a easy way to run 13's, then start spraying :) I reccomend ZEX or NX kits. They are by far the best kits available. If you wanted to run anything higher then a 50 shot you will need a fuel pump and fpr. You can run a higher shot w/o that stuff, but its not that safe. Dyno tuning w/ a air/fuel readout is the only way to truley see what is safe for your motor.
 

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StreetThisMX6 said:
You could run a 50 shot all day long and be perfectly fine. 10:1 compression isn't that high. Its actually pretty average.

I'd say if you want a easy way to run 13's, then start spraying :) I reccomend ZEX or NX kits. They are by far the best kits available. If you wanted to run anything higher then a 50 shot you will need a fuel pump and fpr. You can run a higher shot w/o that stuff, but its not that safe. Dyno tuning w/ a air/fuel readout is the only way to truley see what is safe for your motor.
I disagree but we are all entitled to our own opinions. I really think it is unsafe. HE might wind up blowing his seals and o-rings IMO. I cuold be wrong :shrug: But I'd hate to be right!!!
 

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You could run a 50 shot all day long and be perfectly fine. 10:1 compression isn't that high. Its actually pretty average.
I agree with StreetThisMX6...a ZE can Handle a 50-55 shot safely

If you want the nitrous that bad, get a dry setup of a 75 shot and put the lower compression pistons of your old KL03 back in. This should net you high 13s.
the KL03 can handle more of a shot of nitrous...but don't every geta dry shot...those are dangerous than with shots over 50....stick with a wet shot no matter what shot your doing to be on the safe side

squeeze on the ZE....just don't over 55...and go wet shot for god sakes! :tup:
 

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I have to agree with some and disagree with others. The comp ratio is pretty high for nitrous yet it is O.K. as long as it is really tuned well. If I was you I would pay the extra money and have my blocked o-ringed for the increased pressure and run a copper head gasket, then I would put some 9.0:1 comp forged pistons in it hopefully a steel crank shaft(but those are expensive and isn't absolutely neccessary). That combo should safely take a 150 jet of nitrous and still be able to drive home, Nitrous is great but it creates some difficult tuning issues so you might consider getting a noszle kit from Holley. It may cost more but you can indvidually tune each cylinder and not worry about running lean in just one cylinder plus you can get more bang for your buck since it is FAR more efficient. I love nitrous when it slams me into the seat but hate it when it kills my motor. What ever you do don't do it yourself unless you have QUALIFIED experianced import mechanic telling you how to do it, forking up the extra bucks intially will save your engine in the long run. Just resist the temptation to put a larger shot of nitrous in the engine and don't hold it for longer than 12 seconds. Also at the first sign of black smoke coming out your exhaust during a spray "cut it off!" your motors dying.
 

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the KL03 can handle more of a shot of nitrous...but don't every geta dry shot...those are dangerous than with shots over 50....stick with a wet shot no matter what shot your doing to be on the safe side
A dry shot is sprayed into the IM and sucked down evenly (usually) into the cylinders. A wet shot is mixed in with the fuel line, and direclty sprayed into the cylinder.

I have ALWAYS read that the wet system creates more power but is more dangerous. The dry system is not quite as effective, but is MUCH safer.

Am I completely confused here guys? I don't know my nitrous setups all that good.
 

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A dry shot is sprayed into the IM and sucked down evenly (usually) into the cylinders. A wet shot is mixed in with the fuel line, and direclty sprayed into the cylinder.
Dry Shot- sprays nitrous from TB into intake manifold...and fuel pressure will be adjusted by the computer...if computer doesn't respond quick enough or not respond at all it will detonate..bye bye engine

Wet Shot- sprays nitrous and fuel from the TB ino to the manifold...the proper amount of fuel is sprayed with the nitrous...much safer

Direct Port- sprays nitous and fuel in to each cylinder...very expensive...but yeilds the best results...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the rcomendations here guys. Going with some of the information....of course the safest route is to not spray at all. I think I will take the chance though. I'll keep the n20 hooked up but i'll only use it when necessary. As soon as I notice one problem, one thing different, byebye zex. I think as soon as I get the fpr and fuel pump, i'll be ok to spray at the track and on worthy street competitions. I'm only hesitant to spraying because while this is my 'race car' it is, at the same time, my daily driver. I have to drive to school and work everyday with this, and when/if something goes wrong, i'll need it running within a day or two so i don't screw myself over. We'll see how things work, but as for now, the N2o is staying on! Later.

-wes m.
 

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What most people don't know about wet sytems is that they actually coat the inside of your manifold with fuel and nitrous so it will actually run cooler as far as the air charge is concerned but you pay the price with the occasional "uncle buck backfire" but i think its hilarious when you smoked somebody and you are pulling up to a crowd and the car backfires, scaring the sh** out of everyone.:D
 
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