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so does this mean that I can have like 7 psi on a ze with just an inline fuel pump if it's tuned right (how much whp would thos aprx. make?)? Shops can tune it, right?
Your gonna want more than that, youll still need injectors and other crap, your probably going to want to run megasquirt to get a good tune
 

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Your gonna want more than that, youll still need injectors and other crap, your probably going to want to run megasquirt to get a good tune
definately!! as mazda said big boost on a roots sc will be pricey, a centrifugal sc would be better for that task. but a well tuned 7psi will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
OK thanks, here is the FINAL farvor I would ask, could you post a list of EVERY SINGLE THING i would need to buy for this operation. Thank you very much for your time. Karma was given to all those who posted on this thread.


And btw I would go with the centrifugal one, but I've read that the root one gives more power at lower rpms, and since the mx-6 is a high rev car I think it would balance the power more throught the whole rpm range.
 

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OK thanks, here is the FINAL farvor I would ask, could you post a list of EVERY SINGLE THING i would need to buy for this operation. Thank you very much for your time. Karma was given to all those who posted on this thread.


And btw I would go with the centrifugal one, but I've read that the root one gives more power at lower rpms, and since the mx-6 is a high rev car I think it would balance the power more throught the whole rpm range.
Something else to think about, if you decide to push as much power as you can with a roots, you can count on your third gear shredding very quick...because of the low end power given you will spin the tires, catch and shred
 

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OK thanks, here is the FINAL farvor I would ask, could you post a list of EVERY SINGLE THING i would need to buy for this operation. Thank you very much for your time. Karma was given to all those who posted on this thread.


And btw I would go with the centrifugal one, but I've read that the root one gives more power at lower rpms, and since the mx-6 is a high rev car I think it would balance the power more throught the whole rpm range.
one thing i would suggest is staying with a DE and then boosting it as the lower compression is a little more "boost friendly". if youre concerned with MPG, then mabey modding a car isnt for you. i dont say that to be mean at all, but ive noticed that modding tends to lead to a heavier right foot. if you do want to go FI though, i would look into probeaddiction.com because they have supercharger and turbo kits, but i would ask some of the veteran members first as they would know better then i do about fitment issues with both kits:shrug: . fuel is going to be one of the most crucial issues if you want to have your soon to be boosted car running properly so megasquirt, larger fuelinjectors, and fuel pump are good places to start researching.
as for what mazda4ever said, yea, the roots will more than likely shred youre 3rd gear up because the tranny in our cars isnt really very beefy or strong. i do wish you good luck though, let me know if you need help finding anything
 

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i dont know any member that has a probeadditcion kit, most are thrown toghether by what they need. boost is not for every one, you have to know how to work on your car. heres a list of stuff
Components

Collector pipe,pipe that merges front and rear exhaust manifolds and feeds into turbocharger
Turbo
Wastegate
Intercooler
Intercooler piping: from turbocharger to IC, from IC to VAF
Blow off valve or compressor bypass valve
Silicone couplers and clamps for intercooler piping
Downpipe: pipe expelling exhaust from turbocharger to cat
Oil lines: Feed line, -4AN; Drain line, at least 1/2”
Tapped oil pan: preferably have a ½” female fitting onto the pan
Oil drain flange/gasket: flange that bolts to turbocharger oil drain outlet
FMU: rising rate fuel pressure regulator used to increase fuel pressure according to boost levels
Spare fuel high pressure hose/clamps: factory size used to connect FMU
fuel pump: Preferably a 255lph Walbro in-tank pump. Less desirables are the Walbro 190lph and any in-line fuel pump
Vacuum lines, vacuum block/several T’s
O2 sensor bungs (if you replace the log-manifolds with header primaries)
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Thanks, isn't that a tubo setup though? I was wondering about the supecharger one, unless it's the same ,except the manifold and turbo itself.

And really I think that for a first car/ daily driver 200-215 hp (KLZE and a few bolt-ons should do the trick) would be enough, and since I heard that FI lowers car reliabilty (more pressure on the engine=more wear) I would probably let this project hang in the air for a year or so, plus I'm a student and cant really spend 4 grand on a s/c kit right now. I still really appreciate the info, I'll print it out for future reference. Oh and I did like that site alot, I wonder if the dual exhaust kit would fit an MX-6 just like it would the probe. Thanks
 

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Collector pipe,pipe that merges front and rear exhaust manifolds and feeds into turbocharger
supercharger (prerferable ati-c1)
desired psi(pulleys) 7psi
get rid of AC, to mount superhcarger there
Intercooler
Intercooler piping: from superharger to IC, from IC to VAF
compressor bypass valve
Silicone couplers and clamps for intercooler piping
headers
Oil lines: Feed line, -4AN; Drain line, at least 1/2”
Tapped oil pan: preferably have a ½” female fitting onto the pan
Oil drain flange/gasket: flange that bolts to turbocharger oil drain outlet
FMU: rising rate fuel pressure regulator used to increase fuel pressure according to boost levels
walbro 255 intake fuel
Vacuum lines

varias guages to monitor the engine
boost, egt and a wideband.
 

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Collector pipe,pipe that merges front and rear exhaust manifolds and feeds into turbocharger
supercharger (prerferable ati-c1)
desired psi(pulleys) 7psi
get rid of AC, to mount superhcarger there
Intercooler
Intercooler piping: from superharger to IC, from IC to VAF
compressor bypass valve
Silicone couplers and clamps for intercooler piping
headers
Oil lines: Feed line, -4AN; Drain line, at least 1/2”
Tapped oil pan: preferably have a ½” female fitting onto the pan
Oil drain flange/gasket: flange that bolts to turbocharger oil drain outlet
FMU: rising rate fuel pressure regulator used to increase fuel pressure according to boost levels
walbro 255 intake fuel
Vacuum lines

varias guages to monitor the engine
boost, egt and a wideband.
It is, i repeat it IS a pain in the freakin ass to mount a SC where the A/C goes, if you know how to fab somewhat, it wouldnt hurt to just fab a jackshaft and mount the sc where the battery is
 
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