Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my brakes. The stopping distances suck, because the front drivers side wheel tends to lock up prematurely. I don't think that the passanger side is weak because the rears tend to want to lock a little after the passanger wheel. I could be wrong though. I am wondering how the proportioning valve works? And the two lines coming out of the master cylinder, are they left and right or front and back? I tried bleeding the passengers side wheel, but that didnt seem to help at all. Maybe I didn't get all the air out, I don't know. If it is the proportioning valve, were can I find one, and for how much?

I forgot to mention that the bias is bad even when not braking hard. I notice that the passanger wheel will get coated with about %50 less brake dust then the drivers wheel.

[Edited by kennymx6 on 12-02-2000 at 08:58 PM]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
So in other words Its not breaking evenly?
What i would sugest is that u cheak if both roaters on both sides arent bent and when u take the wheels off get someone to press on the breaks and see it yourself what is really happening if its really breaking evenly Then u will have some sort of idea what might be wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, It doesn't break evenly. I am wondering, is each wheel in it's own channel, separated from the others? Or does one wheel share a channel with another? Like if the front passenger wheel shared a channel with a rear, and that rear had air in its line, would the front passenger wheel be affected?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tomorrow I would like to check stuff out. How and what should I inspect on the car? Someone on the Probe board said to check out the calipers to make sure the sliding pins work. This is driving me nut. This cristmas my car is getting a lot. :) New tires, alignment, 11 band kenwood EQ, Avistart remote starter and alarm. Hehe, its spoiled. The Only two issues I have with the thing are the brakes and the alignmet. I appreciate any help given. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,855 Posts
I believe that the front brakes share the same line, and the rear brakes share another line. Most cars have 60% to 70% stopping power on the front brakes, and 30% to 40% stopping power on the rear. This prevents fish-tailing, and also most of the breaking power goes to the wheels with the most weight on them. Not just because of the motor, but also because of the law of inertia (as you hit your brakes, more pressure is on the front, less pressure on the rear--unless you drive backwards, then it is reversed--he he).

I would check both front calipers, your passenger side may be weak, or the control valve that regulates pressure may be weak on the driver's side.

I had the same problem on a 1970 Ford F100 I had. No power brakes, and you'd barely touch the brake, and the driverside front tire would lock up bad. I rebuilt both front brake cylinders (these were drum brakes), drained all the brake fluid, brake job, every thing you can do to brakes, I did (except replace my brake lines). I finally got it to quit, I don't know what I did, but it finally quit.

Good luck. Your car is dangerous to drive right now, I know from experience.

When you find out what the problem is, let us know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yay! I found out what the problem was! Well, I think I know what the problem is. Anyway, I took both calipers apart. I didn't find much. All I noticed was that the driver side sliding pins were a little stuck. Aside from that the outer pad on the drivers side was worn more then the other pads. After loosening the pin up I put everything back together. Sure enough the car brakes evenly! This weekend I am going to have the rotors re-surfaced and grease all of the sliding pins. Thank you all for your input. :)
 
G

·
I am having the same problem as the first post. The passenger caliper piston retracts easily with using a clamp but the driver side piston won't retract. If I unscrew the bleeder, piston retracts no problem. What gives?

How do I fix this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
If retracting the caliper with a clamp always open up the bleeder valve. Some of these cars have ABS and you will damage that by not opening the bleeder valve when pushing in the piston.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top