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sounds good to me. i usually use Mobil-1 5W-30 year round. but with more miles. i would tend to stay with a thicker conventional oil.
 

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My 6 has 171,000 on her and I use 20W50 valvoline racing oil. As long as it's above 60 degrees F. Otherwise 10W30 in the winter. I prefer mobil1 if I'm not running valvoline.
 
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Valvoline, Pennzoil, and QuakerState all break down into a gummy gunk if you do not change it within 3000 miles or so, The gunk clogs oil passages and hydrualic lifters.

I used to get cars with horrible lifter tick coming into my shop all the time, and they always were using those three brands. A good motor flush (And occasionally cleaning/replacing HLA's) would get them back to new, and I'd send them back out and tell the owners to switch to Mobil1.
 

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0il

I use Castrol 10/40 year round, but the key with an older car is to change the oil & filter regularily (3k>3m), using reputable brand products. Stick with old fashioned dino, unless your motor's seals & gaskets have been recently replaced, otherwise risk potential seepage if using synthetic.
 

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Just to add to this, if any of you guys are going to spend 5.xx bucks a pop for Royal Purple,DONT,for some reason it worked GREAT when I had it on my Corolla,Prelude, but I guess it doesn't do the same for the turbo cars,6 & Conquest, if you have a DX,LX,LE give it a shot, I guess mobil one is up next for me. Just my 2 cents :D
 

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170,000 miles does NOT necessarily mean that your rings are worn and heavy oil is mandatory. If your car was well taken care of, you should be able to run 10W-30 Mobil 1 (if you live in a warmer climate) and 5W-30 or 0W-40 Mobil 1 if you live in a colder climate). I've heard of many 150,000+ mile cars that continue to use synthetic oil without leaks. Turbo-charged vehicles should always run synthetic oil - the life of the turbo will be extended far beyond that of one using petroleum-based oil.
 

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SixSick6 said:
20/50 is recommended for the GT's
...not quite. According to my owner's manual, 10W-30 oil is good from -10F to 90F. 20W-50 is good down to 15F - not recommended for cold climates. Besides, I spoke to a Mobil 1 technical person and he explained that most engine wear occurs during startup. For this reason, he runs 0W-40 in TEXAS! This is why you should avoid using 20W-50 for anything but all out racing on a track.
 

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I have contemplated switing to Fully Synthetic oil. I get my oil changed every 3000 miles, and sometimes i have to add a quart between changes. I have 137,000 miles on my car and was wondering if synthetic would be a good switch. A few of you made comments about IF (with higher miles) switching to synthetic, it may cause seapage. I heard nothing about this before. From what i heard switching to synthetic will not cause leaks. It will however reduce wear on the engine from getting any further. Please help clear this up for me.

Oh by the way, Im currently using 10w30 year round. I live in wisconsin so it gets pretty cold. Please give recommendations.

Chris
 

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My motor has over 170,000 and when I got it I switched to fully synthetic, I had seepage. I switched to 20W50 and there was no more seepage. It did tick a little bit at start up if it sat for too long, but defenitely better. I recommend 20W50 if temps are above 50 degrees F, a thinner non-synthetic for colder temps.
 

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I use 10/30 Mobil synth blend and a Purolator PureOne filter.
 
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