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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start by saying hello to everyone.

I came here in search of some help. My soon to be wife is in need of a new car and since I will be an owner of that car in a couple months, I want something fun in my garage.

In high school a good buddy's mom got a brand new '93 MX6. Immediatly I decided I had to have one. Well, I have always driven Chevys w/ V8's. (sidenote: I just sold my '70 Camaro to save up and buy a '69 Corvette Roadster) The time has come to have something economical around, however I refuse to have something without power and I will never own a car that can't put a smile on my face.

Now for my request: Since I am now in the market for a 94-97 MX6, I need to know what to look for. I know all cars have their quirks and problems any any help on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

And in case anyone is wondering I chose the user name "Malamute" because that is the breed of dog I own.

Also, can somebody tell me more about the car at the top of the screen accompanied by the "Welcome to MX6.com"? I really like the front fascia.

Thanks
 

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Welcome...

I would suggest a 95-97 model, the 93/94 models seem to have had some problems notably:
1- Rear caliper seizer
2- Faulty igniter
3- Issues in regards to auto trans.
I own a '93 mnyself and love it, however it seems that some of the early problems were corrected in the latter models.

The kit you see on that car is the Shogun kit. It is the 'hot shot' kit around here. Fairly expensive to buy and even more so to put/mold on. Mazdaspeed and TC spoilers also each have a kit (I believe thats it, anyone else?).

Hope you enjoy the club.
Cya.
Claeren.
 

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Claeren sumed it up pretty good. However, something to keep in mind is that while the 93-94 years had a few more problems, they are also easier to fix/troubleshoot. Also they are seem to be easier to extract extra hp. I think it just comes down to whether or not you could fix the couple of things like the calipers, or disty if they were to go out. I got a '94 because I felt that it was the best year.
 
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I would also suggest the 95-97 model years. Also look for the LS with leather seats and manual tranny, if you don't get them you'll be wishing you did later, and it'll only add a few bucks to the price. Check the spark plug wires to see if there's any oil on them, if there is, tell the guy to drop at least 350-400 dollars from the price, cause that's how much it'll cost to fix (when you can really do it yourself for about 50 bucks). If you're buying from an individual, ask who drove the car and for how long. Young men tend to drive this car pretty hard, and you don't want to inherit any problems that might arise premateurly. If the car has over 70,000 miles on it I would look for somebody who has a reciept from the timing belt replacement. On a test drive get the car to at least 60mph+ to check for any rattles that might occur at high speed. If there's a sunroof make sure that it's working well. Of course check AC, Heat, lights, that kind of stuff. You could check CV boots/joints too; a guy I know just bought a car with a busted boot, the guy who sold it had grease packed in and he wrapped it w/ duck-tape. Needless to say it failed on the highway and now he needs a new joint. Make sure that it doesn't wander when you're driving it, blah blah blah all this stuff you should always do when buying a car. Hmmmmm. Anything else?
 

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Definately check the CV joints and power antennae..
As for year.. its a personal preference.. but I would suggest the 5-speed.

Chris
 

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Generally it is a nice car. The 93-94 models did have the rear caliper design problems and disty issues. But as noted earlier you can pull codes via a paper clip on these models as opposed to the ODB-II in the 95-97 models which require a code reader. O2 sensors tend to be a very common part to replace along with the valve cover gaskets. If you get a car that needs them replaced, yipee! You can get Sean Morgan's phenolic spacers and install them in the process as you have to remove the intake anyways. As far as putting a smile on your face bone stock you want to get the LS model. It is a nice trim package and it had the 2.5L V6 engine. As far as increasing power, with your basic bolt-ons(air intake, exhaust, headers, etc.) you can get around 155 to 160 or so hp at the wheels. Beyond that you can port n' polish, turbo or sc. Port n' polish is not too bad cost wise, but the turbos and sc's are gonna cost you about $5K after they are done. Then there is NOS. Remember when thinking about 160hp at the wheels, the MX-6 is not a great big heavy car. On the wife note, my wife loves my car. It is a luxury sedan with some pep, she could care less about what's underneath the hood. Classy looks, leather seats, convenient cup holder, sun-roof and a ten CD-changer, what else could she ask for. I think its a fun car!
 
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I have a 95 LS and I can check the codes with a paper-clip; in fact I used this method when diagnosing my O2 sensor malfunction.
 

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Quick Follow Up

Since you are here check out the 2nd gen forums, you can see what "already" owners are doing or having problems with.
 

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The 95 cars are OBD-I and have no caliper or distributor issues, which makes them very desirable. OBD-II began in the 96 model year.

The automatics have issues in many but not all cases, especially with the V6.

The 5 speed V6 models are very reliable though.

Tyson
95 LS (108K and counting....pushing for the record for highest-mileage six!)
 

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this is the 4th car i've ever owned and the one i am still happiest with to this day. after over 2 years. it will treat you as well as you treat it. respect it, it will respect you in return. i am VERY hard on my cars and this one comes back for more. i would recommend the following in addition to the excellent advice already given in this post:
*93-94... although they will have more miles than 95+, easier to fix AND to mod. pre-OBDII.
*5 speed... the auto robs a lot of pep from these cars. if you dont get stick now, you'll wish you did later.
*moonroof...just cool.
*leather... a personal preference. and mazda makes nice leather at that.
*Factory rear spoiler...just cool. MAKES the car. i think it looks funny without one.
*DEFINITELY an LS model. the 2.5L V6 is one of the nicest engines in its class. plus many of the above options were standard on LS.

GREAT CHOICE!!!!
L8R
Nick
BLUMX6

ps. the other 3 cars i owned: 1st car-87 maxima,stock. 2nd- '90 Legend coupe: 5spd,lowered, catback, intake, headers(same 2.7L as accord 94-98, modified slightly),short shift,17s. 3rd- '91 civic si XO DC everything, hdrs, catback,shift,neuspeed springs n strut bars,iceman <---and STILL SLOW!!! so i got rid of it after a total of 8 months and searched out my beautiful Nassau Blue MX-6 :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna search for a 95-97. I'd already planned on a v-6 and a 5 speed. Leather isn't a concern for me because of hauling my dog around. I'm not too worried about mods because it'll be the wifes car and she won't let me do anything but put a cd player in it. My truck is another story. It has 33's, K&N filter, Flowmaster exhuaust, pullies, and an intake. I'm gonna add a MAF sensor and a set of headers next. Sometime soon should come a topper so we can go camping this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I was taking back my movies yesterday morning and sitting in the parking lot was a Green 95. It was so purty. I called the guy and I'm going to drive it tonight. It has every option except auto, leather and gold trim. He said he had the CV boots replaced two weeks ago. The car has 59,000 miles and he is asking $9300. I looked it up on http://www.edmunds.com and high value on the Private Party sale was $8200. The car is in great shape from what I could tell. It had only one ding on the right rear fender. Other than that, it looked almost perfectly cared for. What do you guys think. How much should I really pay?
 

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checking codes?

What's this about checking the codes with a paper clip? How is this done? My check engine light comes on at speeds above 110 kms, is this what I should do to see what's the cause? Any help appreciated.
 

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wrecks

I can not stress the wreck thing to you enough. Look for what's called bondo... you can tell b/c the paint will look spiderwebbed when looking really close. Also, lift up the carpet in the trunk and check for welding marks as well as the frame in the front of the car as well. If panels are replaced, look for a different color underneath the paint job besides the gray/white undercoat. That is a sign of a cheap repair job...blah blah blah...i'm sure you already know this but my last car (94 Mitsubishi Diamante) was reconditioned unbeknownst to me, and after I wrecked it I found out it needed more repairs than the insurance co. had thought.
 
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