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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i was driving today and when i accelerate, there is this sort of clicking/flickering noise coming from the engine. almost sounds like a belt. but it only happend when my foot is on the accelerator. when i let the car cruise, the sound goes away.

it is not HLA noise.
ive searched and im leaning towards a timing belt tensioner or friction gear.
p.s.when i rev the engine in neutral, there is no noise.
p.s.s. in the past month my car has been running so rich that fuel splatters out my muffler.
p.s.s.s. my inner CV boots have been torn for some time.

anyone know what this noise is from???
 

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ducktape69 said:
when i accelerate, there is this sort of clicking/flickering noise coming from the engine. almost sounds like a belt.
it is not HLA noise.
ive searched and im leaning towards a timing belt tensioner or friction gear.

p.s.when i rev the engine in neutral, there is no noise.
p.s.s.s. my inner CV boots have been torn for some time.

Hey Ducktape;
No noises while revving in neutral would tend to outrule alot of things such as belts, pulleys, tensioner, & HLA's.
Usually the outer CV's go out and clic while turning, but.........
you may want to take a closer look at those inner ones off the transaxle. Also check your tranny mounts. Perhaps, that could explain why you only hear it while accelerating in gear. Otherwise my guess would've been the timing belt rubbing the cover.
 

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when you figure out what is making your car run rich...post it up for people like me. Because my car is running ass rich also, but its funny the performance dosn't seem to suffer at all.

Methman
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also check your tranny mounts.
i know my mounts are bad...but how could this cause clicking/flickering?
 

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ducktape69 said:
is this sort of clicking/flickering noise coming from the engine.
p.s.s.s. my inner CV boots have been torn for some time.

anyone know what this noise is from???

Hey Ducktape;
You're going to have to investigate a bit closer to the actual source of the noise. It's the process of elimination, after you open the hood and rule out the top end of the motor, then you'll need to support the front and check out those inner cv's !

The worn mounts and torn boots are not going to get any better by themselves. You may possibly be doing more damage by running it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
ok ive taken some serious time to see where the sound is from. it seems to be coming from or around cylinder#4. but it is certainly in the vertical line of cylinder 4. inleaning towards exhaust manifold leak?

in neutral, there is no sound, but while idling in Drive or reverse, it sounds more like a gargling noise. when i accelerate, it sounds like a flickering/ticking which is loudwhen i accelerate, it sounds like a flickering/ticking which is loud. weird thing is, it is loudest in 1st gear(i.e. higher the gear = less noise) and the sound does NOT get louder after about 3500rpm(infact, u almost cant hear it above that)

now the quesitons are:
1. how do i check the studs or whatever? do i need to remove anything(heat shields/turbo)??? anyone who can post some pics to show me where to look would be very good.

2. when i look at the studs, how will i know if they are leaking?

3. if they are leaking, can i just tighten them? or do i need to get new studs?

4. how much does it cost to fix an exhaust manifold leak?

5. from all this info i have given...could it be a bad injector clicking?
i really ned some quick help guys.
 

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clicking

The exhaust manifold could possibly be making these sounds.

You'll need to remove the heat shield and check for loose/broken retaining hardware or any residual discoloration which might indicate a leak.
Replacing the gasket or hardware is sometimes labor intensive, depending upon the circumstances encountered. It's not that difficult of a job, if you understand what you're dealing with. Look over some past posts for tips on the subject if doing it yourself.

PS: It's normal for the injectors to "tick" while operating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
3. if they are leaking, can i just tighten them? or do i need to get new studs?
 

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I had that problem awhile ago... I found a post i cant find anymore,so i cant link to it.. but it did turn out to be the exhaust manifold. i guess there is on of the bolts that is nutorius for comming loose.. simple fix, took of the heat shield and torqued the bolts down...


Hope that the problem and nothing serious.
 

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I had that problem awhile ago... I found a post i cant find anymore,so i cant link to it.. but it did turn out to be the exhaust manifold. i guess there is on of the bolts that is nutorius for comming loose.. simple fix, took of the heat shield and torqued the bolts down...


Hope that the problem and nothing serious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ahh cool. i was pretty sure its that. did u only have to take off the heat shield? or the turbo also?

p.s. the sound is quiter when the weather is hot. not when the car is warmed up, but when the outside weather is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok guys i took off the heat shield to check if the noise is an exhaust manifold leak(which im almost certain it was). i see 4 bolts(2 top, 2 bottom). they all LOOK fine to me. but under the area that the noise is coming from(cylinder 4 side of the head), it is all black and looks like carbon buildup. but it isnt on the other side of the head(cylinder 1 side)

???
 

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By your description, I think that your exhaust mani is loose and the carbon build up is what's leaking from your exhaust, it's like an automatic leak test. You can torque the bolts down but make sure you don't over torque. The Chilton says 20-25 ft/lbs. But the turbo and exhaust manifold does come off as one unit too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok i torqued down all the bolts. but the one on the top right hand side seems to be broken.
i.e. the screw came out when i turned the nut. what do i do about this?
 

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That's why it was leaking. You need to fix/replace that broken stud in order to fix the problem. It may require taking the manifold off, or you might be able to do it with the manifold on. If it's broken and there is part of the stud sticking out of the head, then you can take off the manifold and put a set of vise-grips on it and turn it out. It may take some work and determination to get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
no its broken inside the manifold(i.e. i cant see the piece)...can i drill it out or something with the manifold still on?

p.s. how many hours will it take a mechanic to do all this?
 

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broken stud

ducktape69 said:
no its broken inside the manifold
Hey Ducktape;
This is a labor intensive type of task for either you or a shop.
For best results, I'd recommend removing the manifold. Then you should be able to get on the broken stud and remove it. Let some penetrating oil soak into the threads first.
Replacing an exhaust gasket and bolts requires time & patience, but is the right way to fix your problem. A shop could easily charge you a 1/2 day's labor rate, so add it up !
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well i will be selling my car very soon anyway. will it do any further damage if i just leave the stud as it is?

p.s. is there any quick fix for the time being just to make the sound go away?
 

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No real quick fix.
Not a hard job, just time consuming.
Should do too much damage.
With most any problem, if you let it go, it will become a bigger problem.
 

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Quick fix

ducktape69 said:
well i will be selling my car very soon anyway.
p.s. is there any quick fix for the time being just to make the sound go away?
Hey Ducktape;
While there's no simple way to make the noise go away, just wear earplugs and ignore the noise until you sell the car.
But, expect the prospective buyer to pick up on the problem !
 
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