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I have a 94 MX-6 and I want to change my door and rear speakers for better sound. I already have two pioneer ten's running off a 600 watt pioneer amp. What type of speakers should I change my door and rear for? I want more of a clear sound.

Should I buy 5*7 or 6*8? Should I also buy an amp to run my door speakers? What type of amp? How many watts would I need?


Thanks
 

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As far as how many watts you want... that is up to you. I personally like to run separate amps for speakers and subs. I have one Alpine 4 channel amp for door and rear speakers and then a Kenwood mono subwoofer amp with a good crossover driving two 10" Kenwood subs. This is a pretty efficient design. It makes sure that your subs always get plenty of juice. As far as clear sounding speakers, look into some Boston Acoustics. I love mine and they still sound as good as the day I bought them about six years ago.
 

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car Systems

Well i got a 93 mx6 i just install MB Quart DSD213 component speakers on both my doors and two cerven vegas tweeter on the side were the seat belts go near the corner panel of the inside and under the side of both corner panel i got two alpines component speakers and going to install another DSD213 Component speaker because there great for the back speakers.i got a four channel coustic car audio amp the push it and the sound nice.For my subs i got two Jlaudio w6 that hit hard and the amp the i'm pushing it is lanzar 1000watts.It's up to u what u want to spend in money ways and the sound u want to get and i'm still going to work on it.
 

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if you want clear sound, definitely replace the front speakers with high-quality component speakers (like Infiniti or MBQuart). like 2Rusty said, as far as wattage, that's up to you, but i think you want anything less than 50W (personal opinion). as you read previous, most folks would agree that two subs are needed (keep your subs and sub amp separate from the door/rear speakers). if your pioneer 600W is 4 channel, then buy something else (like a two channel amp) to run your two subs and switch your pioneer amp to the front/rear speakers. otherwise, leave your sub/amp setup as is and get a fancy 4 channel amp for your door/rear speakers. (of course, all you need is $$). :) that's just my spin of it...

On a personal note (if anyone cares), I have the QSD213 (MBQuart) installed in the door (with the tweeters custom mounted in the doors too), and it sounds like janet jackson's actually in my car. i don't have any subs, but i have nice mid to low end fillers in the back (JL 6x9's). overall, i've been pretty happy with the fullness of the sound, but i am definitely missing the low end of the spectrum. oh yeah, my amp is an old premier gm-x634 (50Wx4, continuous).

good luck, and sorry for the ramblin.
 

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For the clearest possible sound in these cars consider, as previously mention a two way set up in the front door.

Use the best you can afford direct replacement, be it a 6 by 9 or 5 by 7. Some companies actually make this size as just a mid/bass speaker which is fine.

Replace the factory tweeters on the dash for something better.

The choice is yours, but if you have a 4ch amp already then you could run the front side of this to the front door speakers and use the front output from your head-unit to run the tweeters.

I am assuming here that you have crossovers for the two way front set-up.

Personal I TOTALLY ignore rear speakers if you have a SUB/S. But if you must run rear speakers use ONLY the rear output from your head-unit. DO NOT amp up your rear speakers if you want the best possible sound in the front.

If you have a sub, then run this off the bridged output from the rear channels of your 4ch amp. THERE is nothing wrong in using a 4ch amp this way especially if you are on a budget. Although a seperate dedicated amp for the sub is always good it is not always needed, that is why they make4 and 5 channel amps.

Setting it all up is the key to really good sounding cars regardless to the choice or brand of equipment.I really do believe that simplicity is the key.

When it comes to choosing a system, that is really a matter of personal choice. But if I was putting together a simple system, this is how I would go about it.

Choose myself a very good head unit + multiplay unit, at least one with say 4 x 30w plus at least one pre output. Two pre outputs are better, three is perfect. There are some new units out now with either, only pre outputs, these are fine for bigger system installs, or those where some units with a 4 x 40w or 4 x 50w outputs, check them out if they fit into your budget.

I would replace the front door/kick panel speakers with the best I could afford, replacements units. I would only do the same to the rear speakers if my budget allowed it and I did not have any subs in the rear, but it is not necessary. I would also use some small tweeters up on the dash board, top of the door or somewhere above knee level and in front of you if possible.

Using the front output from the head unit, I would run this straight to the tweeters. If the tweeters don’t come with a built in crossover then I would use a 2.2uF Bi-Polar capacitor in line with them.

If the distance from the tweeters to the door/kick panel speakers is greater than 12" then I would consider using a either a 3.3uF or 4.7uF Bi-Polar capacitor, this will offer slightly more integration with respect to frequency overlap and staging problems. NB..there are those who dislike the use of Bi-Polar capacitors, they work fine but if your pocket can handle it then the Polypropylene are the business.

This set-up will lift those upper vocals above the dash and offer a realistic sound stage. The output from the head unit is more than enough to run the tweeters.

Using the rear output from the head unit, I would run this straight to the rear speakers. I would also connect a 100uF Bi-Polar capacitor in line with them. This set-up will allow the good clear mid range and vocals to be used as a gentle rear fill. Again the output from the head unit is more than enough to run these speakers.

NB.. in both cases here I have removed energy sapping bass from this set-up. This allows for really crystal clear sound reproduction.

Amplification. This can be either 1 x 4ch amp or 2 x 50w amp + 1 x Bass Amp. NB.. some amps are better at bass than others whilst some are better at reproducing stereo in the mid and upper frequencies. Which ever route you take, get yourself a good amp, one that states honestly it’s true WRMS output, has built in crossovers and if possible one that has a good review about it or one that you have already heard. You need to check for things like, how much current does it draw, safety features to protect itself, does it get really hot, does it make a lot of noise, does it switch on and off quietly and at what voltage is its’ claimed power. "200w at 1ohm at 14.4v is no good to you. But 200w at 4ohms at 12v is more the biz.."

You really need to hear your amps with the speakers that you are going to use and this is where things get sticky, for it is hard to blind test something that you don't own and listening to music in shops is a total waste of time no matter how fancy their listening rooms is, your car is unique to your ears.

Which ever path you follow be it single or twin amp, two of those channels need to run the front door/kick panel speakers. Ideally crossed over at about 120Hz if 6” speakers, or 200Hz if 5.25” speakers. If your amp does not have crossovers then 100uF Bi-Polar capacitor will do for your 6” speakers. A 47uF or 33uF Bi-Polar capacitor will do for your 5.25” speakers. Both of these settings will allow you to create a distortion free front stage that has the ability to offer stereo imaging of great quality. NB..the front amp only needs to be upto 2 x 50wrms, the rear amp can be between 50wrms - 200wrms in bridge mode, so a 4ch amp with say 2 x 40wrms + 1 x 150wrms is fine.

I would use either the other amp, if you went the two amp route, or the other channels if you went the four channel route, in bridged mode and hook this up to a decent bass box with a speaker between 8” - 12”.

Cross the box over at about 100Hz, it really is a good idea to have an amp with built in crossovers at this stage but if you haven’t then a 6.4mH coil in line will do the job.

You now have a car where you can adjust the volume of the front tweeters and rear speakers via the head unit. The front door/kick panels and bass box can be fine tuned and adjusted via their gain controls . Believe me this simple set-up saves time, money and sounds absolutely wicked. If set-up using a RTA machine you should be able to get a very good sound in your car, that is crystal clear at loud volumes and yet good enough to be judged on. Only consider an equaliser at this stage if the RTA suggests that you need the extra help, don't do it just to be flash.

Hope this helps
 

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lol man that must have taken forever to write, but nonetheless it was very helpful to me at least to decide what I'm going to do.
 

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go for mbquarts or infinitys, i just got 5.25 component infinity kappas, but havent installed them yet, my boy had them in his car, and they were GREAT.
 
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everything depends on the money you have. if you want the best possible sound and have the money to spend get rainbow comp sets.. they go for around 800-1000$ a set. if you want extremely nice highs for a significantly cheaper price go with some infinity kappa or even reference series. they are extremely loud and you wouldnt have to necessarily run a 2nd amp. now it also depends if you want all the sound to be mixed. rear fill is a pain in the ass. if you want to hear the rear mids/highs a little bit more than the front highs get a 4 ch amp with seperate gain controls. adjust the rear first then the front. if you cant hear the rear turn down the front. as for the subwoofers you should adjust those to the max point you can where a very small amount of distortion is running through them. if you have a crossover that isnt on the amp set it around 70-85hz. if you have the stock crossover on the amp turn that all the way down...this will eliminate the higher frequencies running through the subs...such as voices and every now and then some midbass. pioneer is also a very good choice. they are fairly well priced and they produce excellent sound q. i take it you like pioneer if you have there subs/amps. it is always better to run everything the same brand.
 
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go with the hifonics component system 5.25" in the front and rear .this is what i have components in the front and rear with two 12" "titan" class subs and they slam!!!!!! harder than anything else in their class
 
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