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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed a squeak coming from my left front brakes at low speed when turning. I removed the wheel, and found that the brake rotor is loose, ie I can wobble it relative to the wheel bolts. This doesn't seem right, does it? Wheel bearing itself seems OK, but I'm not sure how the rotor is held on. If at all. :(
 

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The rotor is held on by the wheel. Once you take the wheel off, the rotor should just come right off. That is why it is so important to ensure that your lug nuts are torqued down to spec, and in the right order. If not, you could end up with a warped rotor. You may also want to check behind the rotor, on the hub, to ensure that it is a smooth surface and there are no bumps due to rust, etc.
 

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The squeaking is probably the squealer on your brakes telling you its time for replacements. As was said above, the rotor is held on by the wheel, so naturally when it is removed, it is loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ohhhhhhhhh.

That makes sense. I don't normally like to find wobbly things on my car, but I guess this is a good thing.

The blocks are fairly recent (three months), and seem good. Also, I had some vibration of the car at high speed till I removed and replaced this wheel. I'm now thinking that the idiot dealership did not torque it up correctly. Can I check for rotor warp myself?

By the way, how's that Delvac 1 working for you, saint?
 

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Slimdave, the Delvac1 is working great. It seems to have made the engine a fair bit quieter now. The oil pressure gauge does read a little lower now, but that is normal. The HLA tick is pretty much nonexistent, I just have that darn friction gear noise left, but when I get the valve cover gaskets replaced, I will have them replace that as well.
Glad to hear the wheel sounds/wobble seem to have gone away. Getting a shop to torque the wheel down to spec seems to be a problem all over. When I replaced my pads/rotors/brake lines, I torqued everything down to spec. Unfortunately I took the car in a week later to have the driver's side axle replaced and they torqued the wheel down to over 120 ft-lbs. on some and 100 on others!!! Good thing I checked the torque the next night and corrected the problem. I didn't want to screw up the new rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
H'mmm. Veeerry interesting. I'd better run round the other wheels to check them.

My nearest supplier of Delvac1 is 50 miles away, it seems, so maybe I'll stick to Mobil1 for now.

I still have something of a squeek though. I'm stumped for a way to check the rotor without taking it to a garage.

On a side note, what sort of height should I be looking for in a hydraulic jack? Would 19" be enough?
 

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I'm not sure where you live, but I have noticed that even the WalMart stores in my area carry the stuff. it is the same price as what I paid at the Husky station.
I would take some type of a straight edge and put it on the rotor to see if it is level.
I would suggest to get as high a jack a you can. The higher you can get the car to put your stands uderneath the better. The problem I have with my car is that with the stock front spoiler, I have to drive my car up onto boards just so I can get the jack underneath and actually pump the jack handle to raise the car up.
 

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Delvac1

The Delvac1 is a real synthetic, just like the Mobil1. The only difference is that it was designed for high use vehicles, such as delivery vehicles and diesel engines as well. It is safe for our engines, meets the latest standards, including jap specs, and has much stronger detergents than Mobil1 to help clean your engine better. This will help with that darn HLA noise. It does come in a few different weights, but the one you should use for our cars is the 5W40 rating. They don't make a 5W30 in Delvac1, but the 5W40 works great. Ther e a few people over on Probetalk that use this stuff and seems to work quite well at cleaning out our engines.
 
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