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Lightly tap with a hammer with equal pressure on all sides is what the directions say. I call B.S. on that. I might of just pretended that I was at a carnival trying to get to the top bell with a 20pound sledge hammer. I'm surprised I got it apart. Really surprised I didn't break it. After I got it apart I realized from how the one from my 6 came apart I was lucky to be alive. The left side of the center section snapped off all the way around. The shaft snapped in half as well. I guess that's what happens when the front six feet of a car disappears.
 

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Got it all apart. Had to have a friend use an air tool to get out those four inner screws. Back bearings were really shot. C-clips might have been touching on the shaft. Hoping that the shaft is still within tolerances. Guess I'll find out when I have it sent to be rebalanced. Any idea how much a replacement shaft would cost??
 

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around $165 for a new shaft from Turbo International :)

Nick at Turbo Technology can order you one. I should be able to order these myself soon :)
 

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Damn, crossing my fingers that its still good. Do you happen to know the diameter and the tolerance for wear. What really was interesting is that the back bearing (closest to turbine) didn't have the oil holes drilled all the way through. What's up with that? Does that mean I can get a new turbo from the mazda company? I'm surprised it last as long as it did.
 

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Damn, crossing my fingers that its still good. Do you happen to know the diameter and the tolerance for wear. What really was interesting is that the back bearing (closest to turbine) didn't have the oil holes drilled all the way through. What's up with that? Does that mean I can get a new turbo from the mazda company? I'm surprised it last as long as it did.
haha, probably means it was rebuilt someone ago. Did you notice any machine marks?

I don't know the specs off the top of my head, but I believe wear tolerance is 0.010", not sure of the bend, but it's pretty minuscule. I leave those up to the shop that has a balancer and that have the tools necessary to rebend if necessary.
 

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No, machine marks. No indication that it was ever disassembled. Plus I got the car in 1996, which doesn't mean it wasn't rebuilt, but better odds its orginal. The holes go in only about halfway. The trial one which I know was stock had all the same exact components (same manufacturer). They threw in a defective part. I'll ask turbo-city when I send it in to be balanced if the shaft is within tolerance. If not I'll pull the one thats on the car and send that shaft in. Thanks for all the info.
 

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I can't win on this rebuild. I've ran into every freaking problem that I can think of. So the shaft and turbine was bad. Bought a used one from turbo city. Got everything back and the rebuild kit is missing the compressor oil seals. I get them finally, and now I spent way to much time putting it back together. Everything seemed ok, until I go to tighten down the wheel. The piston doesn't stay raised in the middle of the seal plate. The wheel just tightens down against the seal plate. Checked and rechecked to make sure I was installing everything according to directions and same way I took it apart. From the front float bearing it goes mating ring (facing into the thrust bearing), thrust bearing, then the piston and seal plate. The only thing I can think of is the shaft is not exactly to spec, and the length from the turbine to the down size( shaft diameter reduction) is shorter. Does the thinker part of the shaft go like a 1/16 of an inch beyond the front float bearing, or is it supposed to be even. I even tried reinstalling all the old parts, minus the shaft, didn't have that on hand. ???
 

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Second thought, the center housing is messed where the turbine seal goes. It looks right, a smooth slot the width of the turbine seal, then a little rigid about 1/64 high by 1/64 wide??
 

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I can't win on this rebuild. I've ran into every freaking problem that I can think of. So the shaft and turbine was bad. Bought a used one from turbo city. Got everything back and the rebuild kit is missing the compressor oil seals. I get them finally, and now I spent way to much time putting it back together. Everything seemed ok, until I go to tighten down the wheel. The piston doesn't stay raised in the middle of the seal plate. The wheel just tightens down against the seal plate. Checked and rechecked to make sure I was installing everything according to directions and same way I took it apart. From the front float bearing it goes mating ring (facing into the thrust bearing), thrust bearing, then the piston and seal plate. The only thing I can think of is the shaft is not exactly to spec, and the length from the turbine to the down size( shaft diameter reduction) is shorter. Does the thinker part of the shaft go like a 1/16 of an inch beyond the front float bearing, or is it supposed to be even. I even tried reinstalling all the old parts, minus the shaft, didn't have that on hand. ???
doesn't sound like you're putting it back together correctly.
 

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After thinking about it the shaft, and turbine seal can't be the problem. It spins just fine, and if the mating ring goes under the thrust bearing it wouldn't fit back together if the shaft was longer or further towards the compressor side. The mating ring does go underneath the thrust bearing, right?

I'm thinking now maybe the seal plate or the wheel are warped??? Just really don't know..

Should that piston stay fully pressed into the seal plate? There is like a 1/32 gap behind the piston and seal plate and thrust bearing. Therefore when I tighten the wheel it presses the piston back into that gap.

If the seal plate was warped, which it doesn't look warped, (only could put a straight edge across a small section at a time) it could amount for that 1/32??
 

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what mating ring are you talking about?

on the comp side, you have in order from the bearing housing:

thrust collar
thrust bearing
piston ring with two rings
seal plate
then shaft goes through the bearing housing, turbine seal snaps into place, comp wheel goes on and nut is tightened down to 24-32 in/lbs.
 

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Wow. I'm pist off! It was the seal plate. I switched it out with the other one, and presto every damn thing worked just fine. I think the bottom ring of the seal plate was worn down, or the outer ring was slightly warped, or both. Either way it was creating that 1/32nd gap and the piston would pop down when I was tightening the wheel. With the rear float bearing being not drilled through, and this seal plate being subtly fubar, I think you were right when you said it was probably rebuilt. The seal plate was a different finish on the aluminum, however the screws were still T-10's. Another thing the inner T-10's had thread sealant on them, fun, fun. Why do I always get the shit that's been f-uped.
 

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Everything is working on the t-bird upgrade and rebuild. Just want to say thanks Zach. Retapped the manifold studs to 10mm, and put a short cold air ram with vaf relocation on aswell. About done with the break in miles. Tomorrow I should get to see how she feels.
 

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Everything is working on the t-bird upgrade and rebuild. Just want to say thanks Zach. Retapped the manifold studs to 10mm, and put a short cold air ram with vaf relocation on aswell. About done with the break in miles. Tomorrow I should get to see how she feels.
werd...just to let you know, even though the compressor is larger, you won't be able to get as much psi out of it, just more flow ;)

16psi on the tbird is about what you want for max psi.

make sure your fuel pump is upgraded to 190 as well.
 

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Does anybody have an extra curved ZE or Millenia V6 throttle body? Need one stat for the roommate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 

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does it end in 78? can't get a hold of you.... pm me if the number has changed. Or text me if you have mine. Thanks Steve!
 

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EDIT:

Scubasteeve - you're the man! thank you for a hook up on such a short notice :tup: seller feedback +1
 
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