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i successfully swapped engine and much satisfied with its performance. the engine condition is superb i have done more than 2k km and it didn't decreased a single drop of engine oil

But still had doubt regarding its power....it 64hp, 71 hp or 78hp and after spending some hours i found R2 max power

its the 1st link showing 79 hp its a bongo van
MAZDA Bongo Van (3 seats) 2.2D (79Hp) technical data. Power. Torque. Fuel tank capacity. Fuel consumption. Load capacity.
japanese manufacturers uses (Pferdestärke PS) metric horsepower which is equal to 735.5 watts after converting into hp its approx 77.85 hp

in this link read 2nd post
Mazda B-Series (B2200/B2500) - Page 183

check this link too
Mazda E2200 2.2 D funicular DA 3 Teupen 26 meters 1999 Other vans/trucks up to 7,5t Photo and Specs


these too
1996 Kia Sportage 2.2 Diesel De Luxe fuel economy review (model for Europe Belgium)

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/car/1996/1342355/kia_sportage_2_2_diesel_2-dr.html

Asia Motors Rocsta 2.2 Diesel Hardtop 1993 - 1999 Car Specs and Technical Auto Data Specifications and Fuel Consumption and MPG

from this page you can get piston size info
Mazda Industrial & Mazda Marine Diesel Engine Parts - Parts Supply Corporation - EngNet

R2 engine bore,stroke ,con,rod, crank and all parts specs
www.engineservices.co.nz/Mazda 12.pdf

Mazda E2200 service manual
http://eboero.free.fr/lkqsdhqlsk_RT_russek/Pocket_mechanic_mazda E2000_E2200_russek_publications.pdf

Mazda 626 manuals links
Index of /ftp-uploads/Mazda/626
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Good work, its always good when a plan comes together.

Whatever you do make sure there are no coolant leaks otherwise air in the cylinder head cooling passages will result in its quick death.
 

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Chief do you have tach in your 626 and if please tell about its connections
I have tach season on pump but its not working with cluster panel
 

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Discussion Starter #44
The tacho on my 626 connects to the sensor in the injection pump.

There is not much more to it than that.
Maybe your sensor is faulty on the replacement engine.

Alternately did the gauge cluster get modified for the previous engine that was in there ?
 

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I just wanna sure that tachometer directly connects to ip sensor leads
I mean is there any device between them or not.
and my tachometer was working on petrol engine and I'm sure it's modified but now it's headache for me to run on diesel
I have a plan to get tachometer internal circuit board from any other diesel vehicle and the second part is to replace tach sensor if it didn't worked
 

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Discussion Starter #46
In the 626 it connects directly to the IP sensor.

I had a look as the diagram for the petrol model and the only difference is that the same wire goes to the -ve of the ignition coil instead.
 

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Hello chief how are you?
Last week I rebuilt my R2 injection pump because of worn head rotor due to water drops in diesel
now I'm stuck on fuel ratio...
I mean how much fuel (cc) should be injected on how many (rpm) and strokes
My friend who have a diesel pump test bench adjusted fuel to 4 cc on 100 strokes on 1000 rpm but I'm not satisfied
Engine lags power and throttle response is so poor
Please guide and do you think that I should adjust fuel ratio to a similar volume engine from different manufacturer like Toyota etc.. . .
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Do you have the water separator installed on your car ? if not you should.

The book for an RF has the peak at 36 per 1000 @1375 and roughly flat between 600 & 2325. So it is pretty close.

However, the numbers should be fairly consistent for the same displacement of other motors.
The amount often a tradeoff between power and exhaust smoke.
 

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The book for an RF has the peak at 36 per 1000 @1375 and roughly flat between 600 & 2325. So it is pretty close.
What do you mean by 36 per is it 3.6 cc and I have not installed water separator
I searched a lot about Toyota 3c (2184) fuel ratio but failed
They also use bigger head rotor assembly as compare to Mazda
Even Toyota 2c have 9mm rotor and
3c too
Please post a screenshot of Rf engine book manual
 

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Discussion Starter #50
36cc per 1000 strokes, divided by 10 is 3.6 per 100.

I'll take the WSM in to work tomorrow and put that page on the scanner.

BTW water separators are pretty similar just get one off any diesel and make a bracket if you cant find the right one, it'll save you repairing the IP again.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
 

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Thanks for postings fuel ratio chart
I read a lot of pdf of similar displacement engine but only Toyota briefly shared fuel ratio.
4 cc is too low for R2 and you feel very poor throttle response then I manually increased fuel to 7 cc (half turn of full load adjustment screw added 3 cc )
But it was over fueled .I felt because temperature gauge started rising after few km while cruising in 5 gear at 105 km /h
On pressing peddle I could clearly see black smoke in back view mirror which I never observe when pump was adjusted to factory settings so decreased fuel.
Finally I adjusted my engine fuel ratio on 5.5 cc approx and I'm much satisfied
It pull well and best mpg I ever got
but still it's not the same that it has to be and I assume I should be between 6 to 6.5 cc
I'll try to adjust that on diesel bench test machine because I P is again weak and had several heart attacks (air lock) it's a long story will share sometime
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Yes, don't forget it is for an RF so will be at least 10% low and the RF develops torque differently to the R2 which has a longer stroke, meaning more fuel at low rpm.

In my experience if you can see black smoke in the rear view mirror, that is waaay too much fuel.
You almost need someone to follow with a 2way radio so you can get a better idea.

I live in the city, so I wind back the governor fueling so as not to annoy other motorists with the smoke, but I allow the full 'throttle' fueling to be a bit more. This way I can always choose how much smoke is produced with my right foot.

Plus at the moment my engine is burning some oil thanks to bad valve stem seals meaning my fuel requirement is a bit lower than normal.
 

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Yup it's for R F engine but both engines have 8 mm rotor head but different fuel ratio
One thing more I observe that Toyota used bigger I P rotor heads on small displacement engines as compare to Mazda like 2c have 9 mm rotor and generates more power than R2 on high rpm at approx 4700
Do you thing we can swap Nd Denso pump on R2
Nd Denso pump is also a clone of Bosch and zexel vice versa
 

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Yes, don't forget it is for an RF so will be at least 10% low and the RF develops torque differently to the R2 which has a longer stroke, meaning more fuel at low rpm.

In my experience if you can see black smoke in the rear view mirror, that is waaay too much fuel.
You almost need someone to follow with a 2way radio so you can get a better idea.

I live in the city, so I wind back the governor fueling so as not to annoy other motorists with the smoke, but I allow the full 'throttle' fueling to be a bit more. This way I can always choose how much smoke is produced with my right foot.

Plus at the moment my engine is burning some oil thanks to bad valve stem seals meaning my fuel requirement is a bit lower than normal.

If I'm not wrong you can replace valve seals without removing head
Replace and enjoy
 

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Discussion Starter #56
If I'm not wrong you can replace valve seals without removing head
Replace and enjoy
Yes, this is true. I have the tools and the new stem seals ready to go, just haven't had the time.

I don't see any reason you couldn't use the ND pump.

In the USA FWD versions of the RF (in the 626 and Escort) got the ND pump and here in Australia we got the Diesel Kiki (Zexel) They are interchangeable as far as I am aware.

So long as it physically bolts on it'll probably work.
 

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Hello Chief
Do Mazda RF and R2 share same oil chamber (sump) because my engine chamber is leaked and I'm searching and a friend have RF will it direct fit without any alteration
And what you say about turbo charging a NA engine what parts I have to change like con.rod or head? And is it reliable to fit a turbo on R2
 

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Discussion Starter #58
The FWD & RWD sumps are different, but as far as I know between RF & R2 RWD they are the same.
I've not heard of a leaking sump before except through the use of cork gaskets. The sump itself never goes wrong.
Someone used a cork gasket on my car before I bought it, there was oil leaking out everywhere. I used sealant like the WSM recommends and it has not leaked a drop since.

As for turbocharging. I've known quite a few people who have successfully turbocharged the NA motor. I know the factory turbo has slightly lower compression (20.9:1) and larger small end bearings, but this does not seem to make any difference reliability wise.

Under 20psi they seem to hold up. I planned to stay to 15-17 for reliability. factory boost is 10-12psi. I've heard of people lifting the head over 20psi.

There were aftermarket turbo kits sold for the R2 in this country.

Don't forget that Mazda still use the same conrods from the early RF-T on the most recent 2.0 RF turbo Common rail motor making 360nm. I'd say they are well over designed. The NA rods should be fine for a lightly boosted R2.
 

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Both engine foundations cracked and stupid mechanic didnt paid attention and cut the lower sump side which was touching support metal bar under that sump and welded it again
Now its 4 month with leaking oil pan but this time i poured 2 liter oil which was leaked
 

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I have limited knowledge about turbo charging and boost control etc
I heared that turbo piston are different from NA engine pistons and pump ,injectors
i have plan to swap mazda rf head and all turbo stuff , is it compatible with R2
 
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